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Build Your Own Longboard

Competition Rules & Regs
How To
Board Flex
Angled Risers
The Team
Free Ramp Plans
Build Your Own Longboard
My boards



-Plywood (Birch) 6mm thick (1/4") with 5ply

-Polyurethane Varnish

-Wood Screws (50+)


-Electric Drill

-Drill Bits



-Flexible ruler, wood, plastic, or steel

-Measuring Tape

-Paint Brush




-Wood Glue

-1 pair of trucks (10" axle)

-4 wheels (60mm-70mm)

-Bearings (8)

-Screws (truck hardware)

-Angle Risers

-Waterproof markers

-Polyurethane Paint


1) Cut the wood into two (2) 30cm by 150cm (or choose your own size) pieces


1) The nose of the board should be wide (70% of steering comes from the nose)

2) Make it a simple oval shape so it is easy to cut and finish


1) Take the piece of paper/cardboard (this will become the template of the board) and draw a straight line on one side (lengthwise), this is the center line of the board...measure out the length of your board on that line and choose one or the other side of your measurements as the starting point (being nose or tale).

2) The widest point of your board is somewhere about 1/3 from the nose. Measure out and mark it on the template (remember: you are actually drawing half of the board [lengthwise] so...wanted with, divide in half.

3) Start drawing the nose curve now. You can do it manually or use the flexible ruler/wood/plastic item on the "materials" list.

4) Use some weights to hold the wood in place and shape to your needs...very simple isn’t it. Draw along it to get that ‘funky’ curve. (Plastic, curly drawing aids are also very helpful). Be precise..any mistake or error will show up in the end result.

5) The end of that curve is somewhere about the widest point on your board...1/3 the total length.

6) Step backwards and have a look from a these artists do...really useful.

7) Now go further down the board. Take out the flexible item again, and trace along the paper down to the tail, using the ‘overlap’ technique to get that smooth shape [start drawing a new line halfway on the other line].

8) Cut along the lines and there you go. Half a template. Now cut it out.

The Board:

1) Draw a center line on one of the plywood boards [the one that looks best], this will become the underside of the board. Put the template on the centerline and draw around it. When you are done tracing it, mirror it to the other side to get the complete shape.

2) Now take the drill and drill holes around the outer edge of the traced board. Do Not Do Anything to the other piece of plywood.

Curving the Board:

1) Now take the clean hole-less piece of plywood and place it between two edges (two chairs, a table, etc - anything will do) and put the drilled piece of plywood on top. Now you’ve got two layers of plywood that will curve downwards from Earth’s gravity, but not enough. That is where the weights come it.

2) Put the weights on the 1/3 marking (the widest point). Enough curve now? Check your weight and curve to the right amount.

[Remember this - you will be glueing the layers of plywood together in a curved way so they will stay that way once the glue is set. There will be flexibility in the longboard once finished, but it will always take it’s original shape after being loaded with your body weight. My boards can flex until they hit the ground by jumping on them. In normal use they flex from upward curves to straight under my weight. They bend a little bit downward when carving - which is ideal.

Glueing The Wood:

1) Now fold open the two pieces of plywood and put them next to each other.

2) Now prepare your glue [as specified on the bottle - if needed] and paint on the two pieces with a paintbrush. Be sure to put enough glue because the wood will soak up most of it. [All the excess will be drawn out through the drilled holes]. Now smack the two pieces together.

3) Now take one wood screw and screw it in the top hole of the plywood to hold the two pieces together. DO NOT SCREW any screws in the other holes.

4) Ad the weights again and check the curves to your liking. If satisfied, start screwing screws in all of the holes {glue will be dripping everywhere now}.

Clamps can also be used. Make sure everything is TIGHT.

5) Now check the curve for the last time - if everything is all right, leave it for at least 24 hours.

Time to Cut it Out:

1) Check that the glue is set and dried COMPLETELY.

2) Remove all of the screws and properly cut out the board along the traced line.



1) After the board is cut, use either a belt sander or a sanding block [60 or 80 grit] and sand down the board.{You can make the edges round by drawing a line 3mm in from the edge as a guideline and sand the edges}.

When that is done take fine sandpaper [120 grit] and sand the edges. Now everything should be ready for the first layer of Varnish.


1) Get our the polyurethane varnish and using a paintbrush apply the varnish to the entire board.

2) When the 1st layer is dry, lightly sand it using p600 or p800 sandpaper.

3)You can use a waterproof marker to leave your mark on the board over the sanded layer of varnish. After the design is done, apply the 2nd layer of varnish, but make sure the board is clean first.

4) When the varnish is dry, lightly sand with p1000 or p2000 sandpaper. It is now able to be painted. You can use some polyurethane paint [also used on boats].

5) Use some masking tape and apply on the edges of the board to make a clean line about 2mm from the edge.

6) Before the paint is completely dried, remove the tape so it doesn’t leave marks on the board.

Almost Done - Finishing The Board:

1) When the paint is dry the holes are able to be drilled in the board.

2) First get the trucks and mark where the holes need to be drilled.

3) Drill the holes, add the trucks, risers, bearings, wheels, grip tape [optional], and stand back and have a look.



for more information go to

Here is a photo of the board I am making. I am in the process of sanding it, but the sandpaper on the sanding belt broke, so I am waiting for a new piece. After I plan to paint it, and then fiberglass it, using a fiberglass cloth and epoxy to give it a glassy finish. I just used some 1/2" scrap wood, so it is 1" thick and has 8ply. It is about 35" long, because that's the only size wood I could find. Check back for more photos of the completed board.

Here is a picture of the board I am currently making.

If you'd like instructions on fiberglassing your board [no varnish] email me.

Copyright 2004 LolaFly Surf. All Rights Reserved.